Sorry to leave Mai Chau’s peace and beauty. Variety of lovely scents indoors e.g ginger & lemongrass in reception.

A ginger plant

Our hotel – Mai Chau Lodge

Climbed back up the pass with view down over it & our hotel at far end, & then turned SE across very green plains.

Some distance on HCM Trail, now widened. Was vital supply route N-S, when trucks drove at night with no lights, + local women sneaked out to bring food. Younger people now think of war as history, caused by leaders not people, but worried that Chinese taking some islands now.

Season for weddings: normally 2 families meet, then Engagement Day with traditional dress, & Wedding month or so later with western white dress. 2 days for weddings one at each family’s houses, with each family paying for their own guests. Appoint an MC, not an officiant at weddings.

Pm: taken in pairs on river rowing boats with oarsperson having a different technique ...!

Look! No hands!

Arrived at Emeralda resort about 5pm, sun already low. Main areas with traditional curved roofs. Plush room, with window through to bathroom. 2 large swimming pools, the indoor one with lovely warm water, + the two of us had it all to ourselves for a while. All this reflected in prices of drinks. Although much more luxurious, a more artificial feel here, & more confusing in the dark with spread out rooms.

Huge bedroom with see through window into bathroom

Sunrise before we leave the Emeralda Hotel

Early start + on coach by 7.45 for 4hr drive to Halong City. Very flat & verdant again, sometimes with neat planting e.g beautiful, large Bonsai in nurseries. Crossed Red River of huge width, into largest rice-growing area in N Vietnam. At rest stop, our 1st experience of row of ladies’ public squatting toilets, but we all chose to queue for cubicles!

Crossed Red River delta with increasingly large bridges to Hai Phong, largest port in Vietnam. Could see thousands of containers to/from round world. Then mangroves & pearl fisheries in salt water. Stopped at large facility, preparing + selling pearl jewellery, from white, gold & black pearls, some thousands of US dollars!!

Sorting pearls

By 12 noon, ready to embark on Bhaya Classic boat, for overnight cruise round unique bay of thousands of Karst limestone pillar islands, covered in vegetation. Beautiful en suite cabins, in solid wood & balconette – very atmospheric.

A beautiful bijou cabin

Could be as quiet or involved as we wanted. Did kayaking which we enjoyed, the only disappointment being the beach afterwards, where water pollution was obvious – terrible shame in this beautiful UNESCO area.

About 12 guests got involved in preparing spring rolls as entertainment (bit like old Generation Game) – great fun with play off between Charlie + me! He won easily + got chef ’s apron + hat as prize!

“And the winner is ...”

Lovely meal with handmade cake

Later on, after an exotic cocktail, we could lie on deck in balmy weather & see the stars, with water lapping.

An evening to remember

Early start for the 12 of us that wanted to do Tai Chi on top deck at 6.15am, but wonderfully peaceful atmosphere – one for the memory banks. After early morning Tai Chi we had a light breakfast.

Some went on tender to large cave, but we relaxed watching other boats beginning to move, including tiny fishing boats.

An iconic backdrop

Sunrise

Then at 9.30, a large brunch, while we sailed back to land. We’d had excellent service on board, rounded off by crew lining up to clap us and wave goodbye.

3 hr journey back to Hanoi. Only 2 hrs to unpack/repack large cases, do any washing, shower, + be ready for fast walk through Hanoi rush hour traffic!

This was to enable “world famous” water puppet show, showing some scenes from Vietnamese history. Although we couldn’t understand the words, superb puppets, live singing & traditional instruments accompanied only 8 puppeteers operating them under water.

Finally, another coach drop at a restaurant staffed by ex-street kids (bit like Jamie Oliver did) served some of the best meals we’d had.