We went with Ramblers Guided Walking Holidays, on one of their trips classed as pioneer: this could include considerable differences in lifestyle and values; off the beaten tourist track to remote areas; different health and safety standards etc – all designed to give ‘a more adventurous travel experience’ – and this had whetted our appetites. Over the journey out we gradually linked up with 16 other customers from the UK, recognisable with the distinctive Ramblers suitcase labels, and we then travelled as a group throughout the country and back. Although we had a British leader who was responsible for general admin at hotels etc, we had 4 different Vietnamese guides for different areas, all of whom were excellent – knowledgeable, very good company, and dedicated to giving us the best possible service they could.

Excitement as we took off with only a slight delay of 20 mins, at 12.15 GMT. On an Airbus 380, the Thai Airways livery of pinks and purples is a welcome change, and the traditional silk outfits of the female staff quite stunning! Bulkhead seats a treat and upstairs, but then also offered 2 side seats with window and large side compartments, just behind Business/1st class which was even better.

The view from the external camera

No matter how much room we had on the plane, it had been hard to sleep at all. Arrived in Bangkok in early morning smog and to long slow security queues, for further two hours of flying to transfer to Ho Chi Minh City (old Saigon). People were grumpy from tiredness and some tense from missing the tight connection on previous trips.

By HCMC, tropical heat hit us & rooms not yet ready – had to do impromptu shedding of UK layers + leave cluster of cases & bags in 5 star hotel lobby ... To keep us awake a short orientation walk, but it proved hard to focus.

Striking variety of dress and status very obvious

Glorious interlude when could absorb quiet swimming pool atmosphere surrounded by old balconies festooned with greenery.

Bliss of relaxation

The final test for this long day involved an evening meal cooked on a brazier next to us, and eaten on small plastic stools. This was amongst street markets by jam-packed roads – the real deal for many Vietnamese, & what a contrast with the hotel!

After dinner, we were taken on an unusual non-tourist route: down the second-hand street!